Belmond Hotel Splendido has occupied the hill above Portofino harbour since 1901, when it was converted from a 16th-century monastery by the Montague family. It has 69 rooms, a pool with a view of the Ligurian Sea, and a guest list that has included Humphrey Bogart, Lauren Bacall, Elizabeth Taylor, and Richard Burton (twice). The sister property Splendido Mare is on the harbour itself, 200 steps below. Understanding the relationship between the two, and how to move between them, is the first thing FFGR Italia explains to clients arriving at Genoa GOA.
Genoa GOA | The Portofino Airport Nobody Uses Correctly
Cristoforo Colombo Airport (GOA) is 35 minutes from Portofino by private car. Most international clients fly into Milan (MXP, 2h30) or Pisa (PSA, 1h20) instead. The correct approach for a private aviation client is GOA: it receives Citation XLS, Falcon 7X, and Gulfstream G550 without issues at FBO Aeroporto di Genova. The road from GOA to Portofino uses the A26/A7 and exits at Rapallo, the coastal SS1 road is slower and more scenic, appropriate for returns.
Portofino itself has no through road: the village is at the end of a dead-end peninsula. The last 500 metres to the Splendido (on the hill) require a golf cart shuttle from the car park at the top of the village access road, or a 15-minute walk up stepped alleys with luggage. We coordinate the golf cart, the porter, and the Splendido arrival with the hotel concierge 48 hours in advance.
Splendido vs Splendido Mare | How to Choose
Belmond Splendido (32 rooms, on the hill, 120 metres above sea level): the historic property, the pool with the Ligurian panorama, the terrace restaurant La Terrazza. It requires the shuttle or walk to reach the harbour. Quiet at night, no street noise. Best for a 4-night stay where the priority is the pool and the views.
Belmond Splendido Mare (16 rooms, on the harbour piazzetta): the property directly facing the boats. The Piazzetta bar is 30 seconds from the hotel door. Noisier (harbour life until midnight), better for guests who want to walk to Il Pitosforo or the yacht. Best for a 2-night stay where the priority is the harbour atmosphere. FFGR Italia clients who book both properties in succession (2 nights Mare, 3 nights Splendido) report the combination as the correct Portofino experience.
Il Pitosforo | The Reservation That Defines the Stay
Il Pitosforo (Via Molo Umberto I, above the harbour) is the most difficult restaurant reservation in Portofino. Opened in 1963, never reviewed on external platforms, never advertised. The terrace tables (12 available in season) overlook the harbour from 8 metres: at sunset, the boats, the coloured houses, and the castle make a composition that photographers have been attempting to capture for six decades. The owner, Marco Baracchino, runs the front of house personally.
The reservation requires an introduction. Walk-in attempts in August are turned away. We manage this introduction for FFGR Italia clients as part of the Portofino concierge mandate. A reservation for June or September (off-peak weeks) can be arranged with 10-14 days notice. August requires 6-8 weeks minimum.
Cinque Terre from Portofino | The Sea Route
The car route from Portofino to Cinque Terre (Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza, Monterosso) is 1h20 via A26/A7 and involves an inland highway with no views. The correct route is by sea: private boat from Portofino harbour, stopping at Vernazza and Monterosso al Mare before continuing to Riomaggiore. Total journey: 1h40 each way, with 4 hours on site.
The boat circuit also includes San Fruttuoso abbey: accessible only by sea or 2-hour hike from Camogli. The abbey was built in 962 AD and houses a bronze Christ of the Abyss statue submerged 17 metres below the entrance bay. Snorkelling over the statue is possible on the same circuit. We provide the skipper, the boat (Riva or Gozzo Ligure), and a light lunch from Portofino's best deli on board.
The FFGR Italia Portofino Mandate
A standard Portofino mandate (4 nights): GOA arrival in Rolls-Royce Ghost (35 min), Splendido check-in with golf cart coordination, 2 boat days (Cinque Terre circuit + San Fruttuoso abbey), Il Pitosforo dinner reservation (Tuesday, sunset table), Castello Brown private garden aperitivo, Loro Piana Piazzetta appointment (pre-opening access), GOA or PSA departure.
Optional additions: Camogli from the sea (30 min from Portofino, Thursday fish market at the harbour, the largest in Liguria), Santa Margherita Ligure for the Ristorante Il Frantoio (2 Michelin stars, olive press converted to dining room), Rapallo Kempinski helicopter pickup for Genoa connections. All pre-arranged as part of the mandate brief.
Book a Portofino Mandate
